This Saga starts at the foot of the page
(Hopefully I will find the way to re-arrange entries)
The stern bearing was fitted with a ‘Delrin’ insert, suitably bored, but my engineer friend had made it too long. I couldn’t screw the bearing right on to the stern tube so had to drive home, bore out the Delrin bearing from the inside and return to the boat, a 50 mile round trip, and 2 hours of wasted time
Re-fitting the stern bearing required a little thought. It was easy enough to remove, by removing the nuts and locknuts, and simply pushing the bolts backwards in order to clear the bearing itself, and then unscrew it. It was easy enough to replace the top bolt from inside the cockpit, but the lower one is beneath stern tube and totally inaccessible. I took the bolt home and drilled and tapped the end to 5BA (1/8 Whit), and threaded a length of 1/8 inch diameter brass rod that I had had for years. With this rod offered up into the bearing mounting hole from the outside, I was able to push it well into the bilge and, now being able to grab the flexible brass rod in my hand, I could screw the threaded bolt onto the end. A suitable amount of Stikafix 291 sealant was applied to the bolt, then carefully withdrawing the rod I was able to pull everything back outside the stern bearing. Removing the threaded rod, it was easy to replace the nut and locknut onto the bolt.
To access the nuts for the inner stern tube bearing and greaser it was necessary to cut away part of the GRP and plywood mounting for the water lock exhaust. Just why this pad was glassed in over the top of the nuts is beyond me. Like the lower stern tube bearing bolt, there was no access. I cut some holes with my battery drill and a suitable drill bit, then cut a piece out with a jigsaw, and was just able to make a hole large enough to get my fingers into, in order to hold the nuts onto the bolts. Job eventually done! The new stainless steel prop shaft was pushed up through the two bearings, without problem, and the prop shaft to gearbox coupling was easily fitted to the inner end. In case I had to remove this at any time in the near future, instead of a roll pin I used a stainless steel bolt with a lock nut. Having fitted the coupling, I could see that the coupling and gearbox were out of alignment, and I’d need to re-position the engine somehow.
Crane-in Day was to be March 30th, only 2 days away. There was still lots to do, and actually gales were now forecasted for that day, so the crane-in was rescheduled for a day earlier. The propeller was fitted to the prop shaft, but not tightened up fully at this time. More importantly I had to re-align the engine. The problem seemed to be that one of the engine bearers was bent out of alignment, and when I fitted the engine I had pulled it out of true when tightening this bolt. My son and I spent some time with a small round file elongating this hole, but that meant unbolting the engine often, and pulling it slightly into the cabin area. We completed this task just prior to going into the water!
After a couple of weeks or so on the mooring, in which time I’d done a few little jobs, including replacing the NASA log paddlewheel, which had a badly corroded pin, it was time to go on a short trip. My son and I decided to visit Cawsand again, 18 miles overall. We motored down the river with full genoa in light northerly breeze. On our return trip we ran the engine quite hard at 5.4 knots, and there was excessive steamy exhaust, although the engine ran without problems. The engine appeared to be ‘missing’ at times, when idling at the mooring, and I thought it could be some muck in the fuel line due to hard running. Other than that, we had a great day out for about 7 hours.
I wasn’t sure of the reason behind the steamy exhaust, so, having a spare water pump pulley from the old Petter engine, I decided to reduce the diameter from 5 inches to 4 inches to see if this might allow the water pump to pump more water with the increased revs, but it didn’t appear to do so. I still had the same amount of steamy cooling water. The engine cooling water pipe had a slight drip on it where it enters manifold elbow, so I removed the nut and re-packed the inside with hemp and grease. I made sure there was no obstruction in the pipe, and was about to re-connect it, when I thought I’d just check the exhaust pipe itself. I pushed mytiny screwdriver into the opening in the exhaust and found it to be virtually clogged with carbon!. I drilled this out with a 3/16 inch drill, which, when it came out, was solid with carbon deposits. The connection was re-assembled and the engine started; what a difference! There was a huge increase in cooling water, and now it was cool also!
Usually before starting the engine I use the decompressor and turn it over by hand for a few revolutions in order to get everything circulating. However on this replacement engine the decompressor lever wouldn’t stay in the open (upright) position by itself, and had to be held open with my ‘spare’ hand. I thought I’d take a look at the lever on the old engine, and removed the rocker box cover to see how the decompressor linkage worked. No problems here, it just pinged into the open position and stayed there. I put the cover back on, and then realised that something had caught my eye, but I hadn’t taken any notice of it. Off came the cover, and then I discovered the reason why this engine hadn’t started the year before. One of the valve springs had snapped! I could quite clearly see the broken ends, and, naturally without compression there was no way the engine would start. As soon as I got back to the house, I found the spare spring and put it into the car so that it would be in the boat for the next trip – just in case! Unfortunately it was never to be needed.
I had been planning another visit to the Channel Islands for later in the Summer, but it seemed no one who had implied that they might be available to take a week off work was now available. However, at the last moment Matthew, who is (or was then) the Saturday Boy at my workplace, said that he’d like to come with me, and so I started to make the necessary arrangements and plan for the trip. I had decided on a departure date of Thursday 22nd July, with a HW Devonport at 1540 hours. That would give us a full week in which to get there, have a chance to look around Guernsey and perhaps Alderney, and return to Plymouth.
I had noticed some oily water in the bilge, and this seemed to be drips of oil from the gearbox. There was no time to do much about it at this stage, and as the drips were not that severe, with the oil loss at mooring about 30 ml per hour on fast idle speed I decided it shouldn’t be a matter of concern, as I could quite easilt top up the gearbox as and when required. Another job for the winter, and it means removal of the engine, just to do a 10-minute swap over job! Just in case of further trouble, I removed the gearbox from the old Petter engine, and stowed that in the boat. It was only a matter of removing six bolts.
Thursday morning arrived, and my wife drove me down to the yacht club, where we unloaded everything. I’d told young Matthew that I wanted to leave Cargreen at about 1 pm, so as to catch a fair tide along the South Devon coast. He actually arrived about 1 pm, saying he’d been held up getting his hair cut! I was not very impressed to say the least. Mary had been on the ‘phone to her sister, and locked the car passenger door with her handbag on the front seat. Oh yes!, the car key was in her handbag, as was the house key. No car doors were open, and even the boot was locked, which is an unusual occurrence. There was nothing for it other than to ask Matthew to run us home, 23 miles each way, and for me to try to break into the house. Two ‘fortunate’ things here. One was that until recently both car keys had been on the same ring, but I’d removed one of them for some reason, and it was in the kitchen. The second was that the sash window in the kitchen was not in the locked position. Matthew as able – with a little difficulty – ease himself through the open window, and open the house front door. Car key safely in my pocket, we returned to Cargreen. It was now about 3 pm, and by the time all our kit was aboard Appledore Belle, it was nearer 4 pm – three hours late for departure.
We eventually arrived at the Mayflower Marina in Devonport, where I completed the Customs departure form, although at this time I didn’t know the procedure had been changed, and you now complete the details ‘on line’. It was now 6 pm, and the wind had died completely, and heavy rain was falling. Obviously it was going to be a long haul towards Guernsey, and with the engine running most of the way. I had decided that I would make a final decision as to whether to continue or not when we were off Start Point, 20 miles or so from Plymouth breakwater
The oil leak from the gearbox became worse, throwing oil onto flywheel and out of gauze on the casing, (or so I thought) but I was still happy enough to catch this in a plastic container placed underneath the engine, and pour it back into the gearbox.. The oil leak became much worse during the night, and now instead of clean oil it was obviously used engine oil – dirty black! We had to stop the engine every 3 hours or so to refill both engine and gearbox, but the engine started up ok each time, and we continued across the Channel with no further problems.
There were very few ships and a bright first quarter moon for much of the darker hours. The sea was almost flat calm, with no wind until about dawn, when there was a nice breeze from the northeast, which eased the strain on the engine. We arrived in St Peter Port at 1600 hours, 22 hours after leaving Plymouth.
The Autohelm and chart plotter, both purchased on Ebay, worked extremely well, and it was great to find that the Autohelm kept us on course as it should have, and the chart plotter was a great help especially when writing up the hourly log. It was great to get an approximate distance off, and eta too.
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The plan, on a successful landing in Guernsey, was to spend Saturday ashore, leave for Alderney early Sunday, and return to St Peter Port on the Monday, for departure either Tuesday or Wednesday.
As far as Saturday went, it all went according to plan. I had arranged to meet a couple of people I know from the Small Boat club ( http://smallboatclub.proboards.com/index.cgi ), who were arriving on the Cat from Weymouth. We all met up at the Thai Restaurant, which overlooks the marina, and had a good chat over coffee. That over, Matthew and I went to the bus terminus, which was just a hundred yards or so away, and waited for the Number 7 bus, which, for 60 pence, will take you on a clock-wise circumnavigation of the Island. These buses run every 30 minutes or so, and for that price are extremely good value. The trip takes about one and a half hours, and for most of the journey follows the coastal roads. The main objects of the bus trip were two-fold. Firstly, to have a relaxing ride around Guernsey, and secondly to note any places of interest where we could return later during our stay. In the evening Matthew and I went to the Royal Channel Islands Yacht club, and met up with the Macwester Channel Island’s representative, David Cranch. We had a long chat over a couple or so beers, then made our way back to the boat. Matthew had discovered that his expensive Blackberry phone would not work here, and that his service provided wanted over £100 to switch it over for use in Guernsey. However, my own very cheap phone, which is Orange Network, worked very well, and I foolishly let Matthew use my simcard so that he could phone his friends back home. I wasn’t worried about the money, but he spent hours on that phone, and was never around when I wanted to use it!
We had already decided that Alderney was out of the question for Sunday, mainly because of the extra 50 or so miles’ use of the engine, which we realised was not now reliable, to say the least! Two other factors for not going were that we’d have to leave at 0500 hrs to catch a fair tide, and secondly, the whole of Guernsey was shrouded in thick fog in the early hours! Instead, we had opted for a boat trip to Herm, about 4 miles away. The trip takes about 20 minutes and cost (at that time) £9.75 return). The fog had by now cleared completely, and the trip between the various reefs was an interesting one.
There are various little gift shops, restaurants and cafes along the road, or rather track, up as far as Belvoir Beach. Thereafter, there’s nothing, so do make sure you have something to nibble and drink with you if you intend to do a circumnavigation. It’s nearly 4 miles around Herm, and it took us several hours to do it, but, naturally, with various detours. From the landing stage at Rosiere Steps the track heads northwards, allowing great views over the Little Russel to Guernsey. The beach here is a mix of fine sand and weed-covered rocks, with Herm Harbour ten minutes or so walk. This is a drying harbour of course, and there were several bilge keelers on the beach, together with one unfortunate French motor sailer which was laying over on its side. It transpired that although the owner has visited Herm frequently, this time he misjudged the entrance and failed to get his beaching legs fitted before he grounded. Fortunately, his boat was of steel construction, so along with his pride, it was probably only dented! Following the track still further, you will eventually arrive at a wonderful sandy beach, Shell Beach (Shell Bay). There’s a small café here, and several boats were high and dry on the sandy beach.
This, and Belvoir Bay, the next bay round, is where you are permitted to anchor overnight, but you are expected to seek permission from the hotel adjacent to Herm Harbour. You may not, however, anchor closer than 50 meters from the shoreline in Belvoir Bay. Following the coastal path in a Southeasterly direction, we detoured inland to the little hamlet of Le Manoir, where there is a farm and the island’s power generation station. There is a tiny 10th Century church here, dedicated to St Tugual . Back-tracking to the coast path, we continued around the rest of the eastern, and then southern part of the island, which had now become rugged, with steep cliffs, much like Devon and Cornwall I thought. The whole walk around Herm was a great experience, and I hope to do it again some day. The first part to Belvoir Bay is reasonably flat, but the Eastern side of Herm is very rugged, with some steps and steep paths. And, we did pick on a great day weather-wise, for after the fog had lifted, the sun came out, and so wet weather gear was definitely out of the question!
Having aborted the half-planned trip to Alderney, we now had another spare day, so we decided on another circumnavigation of Guernsey by bus. Our first stop this time was Fort Grey, a Martello Tower, which has been nicely converted into a shipwreck museum. The entrance fee of £4 seemed reasonable, although my crew (Matthew – typical teenager) decided he wasn’t interested in the artefacts. The displays are very well presented, and I have to admit to having a strange gut feeling of ‘what if I’ when I read the accounts of ships lost on the reefs outside. I hadn’t realised that it was only in recent years since the Shipping Lanes were created, that most of the shipwrecks had become a thing of the past.
Previously many ships passed down the channel between Les Hanois Lighthouse and the Northwest cost of Guernsey on the one side, and Alderney on the other. I can’t imagine how the sailors of hundreds of years ago must have felt when their ships were being driven onto those unforgiving reefs during a gale. Leaving the museum, we walked along the sandy beach for about a mile, and finding a beach café, enjoyed a really nice ice cream, before catching the bus back to St Peter Port. As I mentioned before, you can ride on this bus all the way around the Island for 60 pence, but each time you break your journey it will cost you another 60 pence to the next stop, or back to St Peter Port. The bus ride is thoroughly recommended!
Departure time from St Peter Port on the Tuesday was for 0945 hours, and so we slipped from the visitors’ pontoons and headed Southwards towards St Michael’s Point, and keeping well out from there as the wind was very light and from the Northwest – well it had to be didn’t it? Right on the nose for home. Motor sailing along the southern coast, we cleared the Les Hanois reefs at about 12.30 pm, about the expected time. It was imperative to get well out towards the West before the tide started turning towards the East, as it was now Springs, and the tide here is 4 to 5 knots! The day was fine, with really good visibility, and I was able to phone Mary, my wife, well offshore. So far the engine, which was still throwing out oil, was running fairly well, although it was a real chore to keep stopping, cleaning everything up, and re-filling it and the gearbox with fresh oil. We’d been fortunate in St Peter Port at one of those ‘Pound-type’ shops. I bought a 5 litre can of diesel oil for about £4, so had plenty on board. The chandler’s were asking about £16 for 5 litres!
We crossed the Shipping Lanes during the night (although we weren’t actually in the TSS), and there were many more ships than on the outward journey but we didn’t have to take avoiding action for any of them On our previous trip to Guernsey we had had problems with the compass. I broke the mounting on one side and when I moved the compass to the other side I discovered I hadn’t connected up the power. That was easily fixed later, and I also bought a second compass. So, on our return from Guernsey this time the compass light failed. Good job that I had the other one! I later discovered that the thin wire had corroded part way along its length, and not at one end. I did think it was a faulty bulb, but that still works. Just a straight forward re-wiring job now. Another problem I had previously was trying to fill the diesel tank from a 20 litre container in a sloppy sea. I had purchased (from eBay) one of those ‘suck and blow’ pumps which sucks up the fuel from one tube, and blows it into the tank with the other. Not expensive, but totally useless! I got more diesel over my hands than went into the tank. So, out came a small bucket and a large funnel, and back to the drawing board for better ideas.
Dawn broke, and we were still on course for Plymouth. There was hardly any wind, and the sea was sloppy. We were still running the engine, but about 25 miles still to run to Plymouth, the engine failed to start the next time I re-filled it with oil. I started up the outboard motor (3.5 HP Tohatsu) and we started to make slow progress towards Salcombe. We were at this time just in sight of Start Point, and the coast.
To Be Continued.......
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